“It’s an unfortunate fact that in the West, Indian food has taken on a casual air. Yes, its distinctive flavors often lend themselves to traveling home in takeout containers. But at chef Rupa Vira’s modern restaurant, the cuisine begs for a more formal reexamination. Here, gold leaf, dry ice, and frothy foams all play a role in a theatrical meal.”
See this: The festive atmosphere takes a cue from pops of color in each of the bright, painting-filled rooms.
Eat this: Lotus stem chaat, butternut squash kofta, chile, and paneer kulcha
When to dine here: A craving for Indian spice is leading you to the opposite of takeout.
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